Contractors

Schedules of Works and Quotes

What

A Schedule of Works is just a document that lists the various works that are to be done. Often for common residential projects, the Schedule of Works includes some degree of performance and/or prescriptive specifications concerning what works are to be done and in what manner, including what construction methods and materials are to be used. You may therefore hear the Schedule of Works being called a Specified Schedule of Works or a Specifications and Schedule of Works. We’ll call them Schedules of Works for simplicity. They can be very high level, broadly laying things out, or very detailed, specifying each component part of the works and prescribing exactly which construction methods and materials are to be used. For the usual residential works, they’re tend to be somewhere in the middle. They can also be presented very simplistically or formatted to look very fancy.

A quote is just a document issued by a business stating the price certain things will cost. They can range from very high level with only headline descriptions and figures to very detailed descriptions given for each item and their individual pricings. The purpose of quotes is to get accurate and fixed pricing. They therefore differ from estimates, which are just estimated pricing. 

A Schedule of Works and contractor quotes are interlinked. A Schedule of Works sets out what works are required. The quote prices for each of the items listed in the Schedule of Works.

That’s the theory anyway. The reality is often rather different, a bit like stumbling upon a room full of cats and trying to get them to line up single file to exit the room in an orderly fashion.

Why

The primary purpose of preparing a Schedule of Works is that it can then be used to send out to potential contractors / trades along with drawings (where relevant) so that they can prepare tender offers. The verb or phrases, “to tender”, “tender offers” or “tendering process” just mean to invite contractors to extend an offer for taking on the project at set costs by providing a quote and any other documentation requested, usually within a specified period of time. 

The reasons why Schedules of Works are used for tender processes are that they can provide clarity on what should be quoted for and, in theory, should mean that contractors / trades all quote for the same works leaving you with various quotes to compare on an apples to apples basis. 

They also help to augment any drawings provided where those drawings leave certain things up in the air like what construction method and materials should be used or where drawings don’t show certain works at all (i.e. your drawings show a loft conversion plan but you also want other general house refurbishment works done internally and they aren’t reflected in the drawings).

Doing a formal tender process can also help with setting defined timings, particularly with respect to contractors timeliness for providing their tenders. 

A secondary purpose is that the process of preparing a Schedule of Works helps significantly with thinking through the works details before asking contractors for quotes.  

When

The usual time for preparing a Schedule of Works and for obtaining quotes is once the Building Regulations drawings have been finalised (if you require them). Those drawings should ideally encompass the architectural design, structural elements, Building Regs requirements and any other helpful information that the contractor will need to know. 

You can go out to contractors earlier to get quotes but if you don’t have all plans and information finalised, you’re not going to get accurate quotes and contractors generally don’t love having to waste time preparing multiple versions of quotes. 

As a potential exception, you may elect to use a design and build company, which is a building contractor that also acts as your architectural designer. In that case, you’d usually just engage that contractor at the outset for the design work and all construction work unless you agreed only to their preparing the design and retaining the option to approach various contractors for quotes for the construction. 

For those only doing an internal refurbishment which doesn’t involve any technical drawings (things like a bathroom renovation or kitchen remodelling that doesn’t entail any structural changes for example), then you can prepare and send out a Schedule of Works as soon as your plans have been developed sufficiently well. As described on our Budgeting page, you might want to or need to contact trades during the budget prep stage to get estimates to help pull together a budget — it’s often also helpful to solidify plans as you can get input from the trades and discuss your plans with them.

How

We’ll start with how to prepare a Schedule of Works and then consider quotes.

The below is in depth and detailed so it’ll can be useful to those undertaking larger projects like loft conversions and extensions. For those undertaking simple internal refurbishment or remodelling projects, you’ll be glad to know that quite a lot of the detail below won’t be so relevant to you. We’d recommend just skim reading and using the table of contents to the right to find the parts that will be most relevant to your type of project. You could get away with preparing a much shorter and simpler Schedule of Works than would be used for the likes of a loft conversion. For the contractor and quotes related information, much of that will still apply if you are only engaging a few specific trades and/or a dedicated remodelling company rather than a contractor.

Schedules Of Works

Do you really need one?

Just so you’re aware, if you really can’t or don’t want to, you can potentially get away with not using a Schedule of Works. Contractors who routinely handle residential renovation projects like loft conversions and extensions are used to clients not being fully clued in and are familiar with what common renovation projects involve. They’ll often already have their own processes, including fairly standardised quotes that they just adapt slightly for any specifics of your project. 

You can therefore potentially present the contractor with only your package of drawings (if they’re detailed enough) and any other required information by email. Typical Building Regs drawings for residential renovation works will tend to include some information covering certain key standards, building methods and materials that are to be used already. The rest is left up to the contractors. 

If your package of drawings doesn’t sufficiently detail those things though, you’d need to spend time discussing them with the relevant contractors so they know exactly what they need to quote for and still aim to ensure that their quote sets out everything in detail and accurately. 

That said, we think that you should prepare a Schedule of Works if you can, or you can have whoever is handling your drawings prepare a Schedule of Works for you (usually for an increased fee). It can be time consuming but there’s a lot to be said for taking the DIY approach for this. 

Firstly, it can actually end up being quicker and easier to prepare a Schedule of Works. It’s very likely that contractors won’t accurately reflect (and therefore won’t accurately price) all details from your drawings, even if those drawings do set out absolutely everything a contractor would need to know. To be fair, this can often be the case when using Schedules of Works too but it’s less likely and using a Schedule of Works at least makes it easier to notice what is or is not factored in correctly. 

Partly it’s just that it takes a lot of time and focus to work through all the information and provide detailed quotes. Things can easily be missed. Mistakes easily made. Partly it’s also because, as mentioned above, contractors routinely handling common residential works are used to these kinds of works and what they entail. They therefore just assume that it’s the usual and don’t really look too closely at all the information from your drawings. This is why trying to get detailed, accurate quotes is like trying to herd cats. 

Secondly, often people leave much more to contractors to work out than they probably should. On one hand, leaving flexibility to contractors in terms of what construction methods and materials are to be used can potentially lead to better value for money if they adopt more cost effective construction methods and materials that still produce a good quality result. On the other hand, well… cutting corners. It opens the door to contractors choosing less good, quicker ways of doing things and using less good materials. Maybe that’s fine for some things, but for key areas of the build it’s really not.

In addition to that risk, some contractors deliberately under-quote in the hope that they’ll get the job and then they try to increase quoted amounts later on, arguing that they only under-quoted because something was unclear or unspecified during the Schedule of Works/quotes stage. The best way to avoid this is to ensure that anything of significance is fully detailed and priced for. 

Another risk of leaving a lot to contractors to work out is that contractor’s usually operate with tight profit margins (of around 20%). That can quickly be entirely eroded just with a few inadvertent but costly on-site errors. The incentive is therefore for things to be done cheaply and not correct errors if they can get away with it. The better job usually entails a more skilled and experienced team and the use of higher quality materials. Both tend to be more expensive. Correcting errors often incurs both labour and materials costs. That’s not to say that some contractors wouldn’t opt for the more expensive way of doing something or to correct any and all errors that occur, regardless of financial impact on themselves. It’s just that the odds of that happening aren’t in your favour. Where key elements are specified up front, you can tilt things back in your direction.

Another issue that can crop up from leaving too much in the contractor’s court is that, while any decent contractor and their team will be familiar with the usual construction methods and materials used for common residential renovation works, those things evolve over time. What was once deemed the best way of doing something using certain materials can quickly become a less good way of doing something. There are also often significant differences from one project to another that are down to preference or some bespoke aspect of the project. If the Schedule of Works and quotes set out specifics, awareness can be raised early.

Fundamentally, you won’t necessarily end up prescribing every little thing in a Schedule of Works, so some flexibility will remain, but it’s wise to specify the key things upfront. 

You could potentially still achieve this by getting draft quotes, seeing what a contractor proposes, then reviewing and talking through with them the various alternative options for construction methods and materials. Then having them revise drafts, repeating the exercise until the quote is finalised. The contractor won’t love you for this though and you may struggle to get any contractor to really engage in that process. They’re busy. They’re also aware that they’re not yet hired. They don’t really want to have to spend many, many hours preparing quotes and discussing all elements of the build with you. They’d usually far prefer it if you worked out things in advance and just told them what you wanted from the outset. In other words, providing good drawings and a relatively detailed Schedule of Works.

Preparing a Schedule of Works can provide clarity on what key construction methods and materials are to be used and help lead to better, more accurate and consistent quotes across multiple potential contractors. 

Thirdly, preparing a Schedule of Works will also help enormously with your general understanding of construction methods and materials, which will be invaluable when reviewing and understanding quotes as well as understanding what’s going on during the works phase. 

How to prepare your own Schedule of Works

Often advice online is just to prepare a detailed Schedule of Works to send out to potential contractors to prepare quotes. It isn’t particularly realistic for a layperson to prepare an effective Schedule of Works without some guidance though. We’ll therefore walk you through how to prepare one. It’ll also be useful information for handling quotes.

Unless you already have a gold star in construction, you’re going to have to go through a bit of a learning curve first. For some people, it’ll be more of a learning mountain than a curve but don’t freak out. Dig deep, it’s time for cat herding school. Use the drop down below to discover more about construction so you’ll be able to understand the substance of Schedules of Works and quotes. If you do already have a gold star in construction, you can skip this.

Most laypersons have no idea what goes into constructing a house (or a flat) and it all seems terribly complicated. The details can indeed be complicated and things can get technical, but the fundamentals are actually quite simple so let’s start there. 

A house is effectively a box. It is at its most basic really just walls and a roof, with doors and windows. Think of a tent. It’s in essence the same but just more permanent, using a lot more materials, incorporating electrics and plumbing, and finished off nicely so it feels more comfortable and homely. 

The following is aimed at getting you through the basics relatively painlessly. It’s also useful to Google things you don’t know, especially any terms. Often having a quick look at Google Images is all it will take to familiarise yourself with something and realise that there’s not a lot to it.

External Structure and Subterranean / Groundworks

  • Foundations are used to provide foundational support for the structure.
  • The ground moves and slowly changes over time. It absorbs water and expands. It dries out and contracts. To build walls on the ground that are less likely to fall apart as the ground moves, foundational support is needed. Usually the deeper into the ground you go, the more stable it is. 
  • Typically these days, the ground is excavated a metre or more down in preparation for laying the foundations, the most common being trench (aka strip) foundations and pad foundations. 
  • Trench foundations are just what they sound like — strip trenches, wider than the wall will be, filled with concrete. 
  • Pad foundations are just square or rectangular trenches filled with concrete. They are used to distribute weight more broadly, in the same way a pair of snow shoes distributes your weight across an area of snow.
  • Walls provide structure, weather proofing, insulation and reduce transmission of sound.
  • External walls provide the external vertical structure of the house. They support the roof and other elements of the house. They create a barrier between what becomes the outside and the inside, protecting the inside from the elements. These days, external walls are usually what are called cavity walls. These are actually two walls set slightly apart with insulation materials in between (or insulation materials and an air gap). Insulation materials can also have acoustic properties that, along with the wall structure itself, help to reduce the transmission of sound.
  • In England, there were generally different types of house walls built historically:
  • Pre-1919: Solid wall (single leaf) construction — brick or stone
  • 1920-1975: Cavity walls, uninsulated — brick and block
  • Post-1975: Cavity walls, insulated — brick and block
  • External walls also tend to have layers incorporated to control moisture. Damp proof courses (DPCs), which these days are usually just wall width rolls of polythene, are laid in between bricks near the foundations to prevent moisture from rising up through the wall. Damp proof membranes (DPMs), again usually polythene but in sheet form, are used in wall cavities to prevent moisture travelling from one side to the other (these days some insulation options already incorporate a form of DPM).  
  • The roof provides structure, weather proofing, insulation and reduces transmission of sound.
  • The roof provides the external horizontal structure of the house. They are either pitched or flat. 
  • A pitched roof is usually constructed with timber beams that rest on the external walls and which meet in the centre at an apex to create a triangle of some sort. They often also have timber beams running horizontally to provide support to the triangle part of the structure. 
  • Flat roofs use timber beams running horizontally (although in reality a flat roof will be at a very slight pitch to allow for water run-off). Tiles of some kind or, in the case of flat roofs, GRP (glass-reinforced plastic / fibreglass) or EPDM (ethylene propylene diene monomer /rubber), is used to weatherproof the roof structure. 
  • Roofs, like walls, create a barrier between the outside and the inside, protecting the inside from the elements. These days, they also provide insulation and reduce noise transmission. 
  • A so-called “cold roof” has the insulation layer between the timber beams (called cold because the top part of the roof is not insulated). 
  • A so-called “warm roof” has the insulation layer sitting on top of the timber beams. A roof will also tend to have other layers like DPMs to control moisture. 
  • Windows and doors provide light and a way in and out.
  • When built, openings are left in walls (and potentially roofs if there will be any roof/skylights) for windows and doors. A lintel is placed along the top of the opening so that the part of the wall above it doesn’t collapse into the empty space left below. 
  • A lintel is just a horizontal beam (often concrete or timber) placed over the top of the opening with its edges resting on the parts of the wall either side of the opening. 
  • Windows and doors are installed into the openings, with sealants and/or fillers of one kind or another used to fill any small gaps between the frames and the walls.
  • Ground floors contribute to the structure and insulation of the building and provide the internal base on which a flooring finish is added.
  • Ground floors will generally either be floating/suspended or solid. 
  • Suspended Very common amongst older period properties, a suspended timber floor uses timber joists suspended from load-bearing walls, which are then covered with either floorboards or some other form of boarding material. Air vents or air bricks are normally installed in the exterior walls to allow ventilation under and around the floor to prevent moisture building up and rotting joists. These days, it’s common in renovations to lay a breathable membrane between the joists, laying breathable insulation on top of the membrane (between the joists) and then replacing floorboards or laying some structural flooring (thick chipboard or plywood). 
  • Solid:  Often used in ground floor extensions, solid floors are made up of various layers.
  • A sub-base layer — compacted building rubble or loose stone-based material 
  • A hardcore layer — a mass of solid, not easily degraded materials of low absorbency, to make the required level and to create a solid base
  • A sand blinding layer — to fill gaps around the hardcore layer and to create an even, flat layer
  • A DPM layer — to prevent moisture rising from the earth up through the rest of the floor
  • An insulation layer — to reduce heat transfer with the ground and materials below (if the floor is to have a water based underfloor heating system built in, it’s placed on top of this layer)
  • A thick concrete layer — this provides weight for stability and a solid level surface (in some constructions this layer is placed below the insulation layer)
  • A screed layer — a layer of screed (sand and cement mix) is laid as the last level before adding your floor finish
  • A flooring finish level — wood, tiles, carpet or whatever surface layer flooring finish is to be used
  • Drainage is built into the ground and building structure where needed.
  • While sometimes mixed to a degree, there are usually two main separate drainage systems — waste water and surface (i.e. rain) water:
  • Waste water drainage systems carry away all the waste water from your toilets, sinks, showers, baths, washing machines, dishwashers, and so on
  • Surface water drainage systems carry away all rain water
  • The waste water drainage system will include subterranean pipes that carry waste water under the relevant internal ground floor areas, under parts of the external structure and out into a public waste water sewer. 
  • Where waste water pipes run under parts of the building structure, the weight of the structure (whether walls or flooring etc) would cause damage to the pipes or cause them to collapse. “Bridging” of some kind is therefore used to hold the load above it and distribute some of that load to either side. Bridging is just like lintels for windows and doors. 
  • The sewer network requires inspection chambers and/or manholes every so often. They are access points to the underground pipework to allow for maintenance. An inspection chamber is a smaller vertical tunnel (often now just a plastic tube leading down to open sections of the pipework). A manhole is a larger version, so-called because it’s large enough for a person to climb down into. There may therefore be one or the other built into the drainage system. 
  • The surface water drainage system is made up of an external network of pipes and connectors that carry rain water down from roofs, into pipes in the ground and on into a public surface water sewer (or sometimes to the public waste water sewer). 
  • Subterranean pipes are also laid or adapted to carry water and oil or gas into the building (if oil or gas is used for heating or cooking).
  • The electrical mains cable will also run underground from outside the structure to inside it where it comes up above ground and connects to a meter. 

Internal Structure, First Fix Plumbing and Electrics

  • Internal walls support weight and/or partition space, as well as insulate and reduce noise transmission.
  • We’re all familiar with internal walls creating defined, partitioned spaces throughout a house. They are either load-bearing or stud walls.
  • Load-bearing means that they are built and placed to support weight, and will therefore usually be solid and made of masonry of one kind or another. 
  • Stud walls are internal cavity walls. They tend to be built with simple vertical and horizontal timber or metal beams that form the internal frame for the wall. These days, stud walls are often insulated with the noise reducing insulation material placed in the cavities between the timber/metal internal frame. 
  • The walls are then often covered with plasterboard, which is just boards made from plaster (gypsum to be specific) with thick card on either side. A layer of plaster is then applied over the top to make the overall wall smooth and ready for decoration (or if no plasterboard is needed, just the layer of plaster). 
  • As with external walls, there’ll be some kind of lintel used for doorways and windows placed in internal walls.
  • Internal floors firm up the structure and/or partition space.
  • Floors higher than ground floor will be suspended, with timber joists running from wall to wall, which supports their weight, and with insulation materials (usually also with acoustic noise reduction properties) placed between the joists. To form the ceiling of the level below, plasterboard is attached to the underside of the joists, with a plaster layer over the top to make it smooth and ready for decoration. The floor of the level below is formed by laying a sub-floor (like chipboard or plywood) over the joists and then whatever flooring finish is used (wood, tiles, carpet, etc).
  • Staircases are built in to access higher floors.
  • Usually made from wood in the residential house context, most people will be familiar with staircases and their variety of styles. It’s worth knowing their component parts though. It’s easiest to just pull up a few images on Google Images to get familiar with the component parts.
  • A network of pipes is added internally to carry the external water supply around the building to where it is needed for kitchens, appliances, bathrooms and the central heating system. 
  • These pipes are hidden in walls and in the suspended floors. 
  • Central heating is one of those things that people often find confusing. The central heating system is basically just a network of pipes though, carrying heated water around. That water is heated using some kind of heater, such a gas or oil-fired boiler (or in more recent times, a heat pump).  
  • A network of electrical cables is added internally to carry electricity around the building to where it is needed.

Second Fix Carpentry, Plumbing and Electrics, the Kitchen and Finishes

  • Flooring is laid, including any carpets, hardwood flooring and tiles.
  • Tiling to the kitchen and/or bathroom is done.
  • Skirting boards and architraves are installed. (Architraves are just the visible wooden decorative strips that frame doorways and some windows.)
  • Any kitchen is installed, with units going in first along with any separating and end panels, then the worktop goes on, doors, plinths, cornices, hardware and other elements are attached. 
  • All the visible parts of the plumbing network are added.
  • Bathrooms: toilets, sinks, baths, showers, taps, etc
  • Kitchens: sinks, taps, etc
  • Central heating: boiler, radiators, etc  
  • All the visible parts of the electrics network are added, including all lighting, sockets, appliances, extractor fans, and smoke, heat and carbon monoxide detectors.
  • Walls and ceilings are painted or papered. 
  • Blinds, curtains and other soft furnishings are added.

The above focuses on a typical residential house but flats are largely the same. The overall flats building is effectively like a large house (maybe it was actually a house converted into flats) with certain differences to separate off each flat within the building (i.e. more acoustic insulation between flats, separate electrical meters, etc). 

A good place to find out more details or specifics about construction if you’re interested, is the Designing Buildings construction wiki website. Toward the top right of that homepage, there is a search box that can be used to look up all sorts of construction topics. It doesn’t just cover simple residential construction though so be warned that it can get detailed and complicated. 

Even if you don’t end up preparing a Schedule of Works, the reality is that the same information should be reflected in quotes one way or another, given that quotes are effectively a Schedule of Works with costings. If you can wrap your head around the following, you should be in good shape for reviewing quotes also.

What will also aid understanding is asking as many questions as you can of professionals during the planning stage. When you’re presented with drawings, particularly any structural and Building Regulations drawings, try to find out how things will be constructed and what the options are for materials. 

If you’re having Building Regs drawings prepared, those will be very helpful for preparing your Schedule of Works. If you’ve read our Building Regs page, you’ll know now that the Building Regulations set minimum standards, including with respect to the use of certain materials. Your Building Regulation drawings can specify higher standards though and can specify what exact materials should be used, right down to particular brands. You should have conversations with whomever is preparing your Building Regulation drawings about what standards can be achieved and how, as well as what the options are for materials so that those specifications can be reflected in the drawings. 

Watch out for entirely handing the reins over to whomever is preparing your drawings by the way. In our experience, there’s a tendency for them to just throw in whatever they think is best or whatever their usual is, without much regard for cost. Which construction method and/or material is used can directly and significantly affect pricing so you need to get a handle on them to make informed decisions about costs. Otherwise you can easily end up getting quotes that are unnecessarily high purely because the contractors are all quoting for higher end materials that you don’t necessarily need. For example, it’s no good reflecting in Building Regs drawings that you want insulation to achieve standards much higher than the Building Regs require and specifying certain pricier insulation brands if you don’t have the budget to pay the inevitably higher costs. 

The following are just some examples, purely for illustrative purposes. The aim is to give you the background and tools to use to develop your own Schedule of Works using your drawings and knowledge you’ll have built up about what your particular project entails. It’s up to you to be responsible for handling your own Schedule of Works and/or quotes, which are likely to vary in several respects. 

It’s also worth bearing in mind that the below lists reflect the usual in terms of the categories and running order of works. Sometimes things are done concurrently or in slightly differing orders though (for example, maybe some or most of the painting is done before second fix electrics are done). You don’t need to worry too much about that. Just be mindful that Schedules of Works and quotes might reflect things in differing orders and under differing categorisations. Ultimately, they should all cover the same substance. 

Let’s use an example of a ground floor extension with a minor internal reconfiguration to have an understairs toilet constructed.

STEP 1 — Start with creating a basic list of the high level stages
  • Site Preparation
  • Demolition & Clearance
  • Subterranean / Groundworks
  • Structural & Exterior
  • First Fix*
  • Second Fix*
  • Painting & Decorating
  • Site Clearance

That’s it. Easy.

(* A note about first fix and second fix. If you have a look elsewhere online, you’ll quickly notice that what constitutes “first fix” work is not clear. It’s one of those terms that different people use to mean different things. Broadly, it’s often used to mean one of two things. Either all work right up to and including when the internal walls are plastered, with all hidden plumbing and electrics done, or the work after the structure (load bearing walls, roof, etc) has been done and weatherproofed up to and including when internal walls are plastered, with all hidden plumbing and electrics done. Our understanding and use is the latter. You should ideally include in your Schedule of Works a side note or footnote as to what you mean by first fix and second fix to try to avoid confusion.)

STEP 2 — Bulk out each header category with the relevant sub-categories
  • Site Preparation
  • Permits
  • Sanitary and Health & Safety
  • Skips
  • Hoarding & Protective Gear 
  • Scaffolding
  • Electrical, Plumbing & Drainage
  • Demolition & Clearance
  • External Area 
  • Internal Area
  • Subterranean / Groundworks
  • Excavations
  • Foundations
  • Drainage
  • Internal Subfloor
  • Structural & Exterior
  • Brickwork
  • Steelwork
  • Carpentry
  • Roofing
  • Glazing & Doors
  • Other
  • First Fix*
  • Carpentry / Joinery
  • Plumbing & Gas
  • Electrics
  • Insulation
  • Plasterboarding
  • Plastering
  • Second Fix*
  • Plumbing
  • Heating
  • Sanitaryware (toilets, showers, baths, sinks, taps)
  • Appliances
  • Electrics
  • Heating
  • Switches
  • Sockets
  • Lighting
  • Appliances
  • Other electrics (such as fans)
  • Tiling
  • Doors
  • Flooring
  • Kitchen
  • Base and wall units, panels, doors, plinths, cornices, splashback, etc
  • Worktops
  • Skirting & Architraves
  • Painting & Decorating
  • Preparatory work before painting / papering
  • Painting / papering
  • Site Clearance
STEP 3 — Edit to provide more detail and ideally specify who’s supplying and doing what

This last step is the real challenge because it will involve really thinking through all the component parts of the works phase, including any specific construction methods, materials and quantities that need to be specified if not already reflected in your drawings.

Don’t freak out if you’re not yet at the stage of being able to add this next detailed level. Firstly, what is laid out below will similar to what you’ll be aiming for so you can even begin just by copying and pasting the relevant parts and then editing to adapt as needed. Secondly, it can be an iterative process and the very act of working through a Schedule of Works and trying to make it more detailed will bring you much further down the road. As always, if a term or phrase isn’t familiar to you, you’ll probably find that having a quick look online for what it is or what it means will reveal that it’s actually easily understandable. We find that looking at images of construction methods and materials to be particularly helpful for quickly building knowledge.

If you have drawings that set out construction methods and materials, then you can use those to quickly build out the detail of your Schedule of Works. You can also or alternatively cross-refer to those drawings where it’s helpful to do so, rather than repeating information in your Schedule of Works that’s already clear in the drawings. 

If you don’t have drawings or if your drawings omit any pertinent details, where important, you’ll need to be very specific about what construction methods and materials should be used or you leave yourself open to things being at the contractor’s discretion. That would likely result in getting quotes for different things, meaning you won’t be able to compare quotes easily. It also exposes you to those contractors who like to underquote and then seek to increase costs later. In the longer term, it could also easily result in the work done and materials used being less than ideal. 

Beware that many Building Regs drawings used for common residential works may include a fair amount of detail concerning construction methods and materials and sufficient information about dimensions from which quantities can be worked out, but they may not be as complete as full construction drawings. If that’s the case, your Schedule of Works can cross-refer to the drawings for many things but you’ll need to add further detail in the Schedule of Works where useful or necessary. 

Here is our illustrative Schedule of Works again, now with more detail. We use a mix of cross-referring to drawings and/or setting certain things out in more detail so you can see the two approaches side by side. As we’re assuming the use of drawings, those drawings will set out all relevant dimensions so we don’t specify quantities of materials as the contractors would be able to work this out themselves quickly using the drawings. 

  • Site Preparation
  • Permits
  • Organise and pay for permits for portaloo and skips to be left on the public highway/road
  • Sanitary and Health & Safety
  • Supply portaloo and other sanitary equipment as needed
  • Supply adequate first aid and other health and safety equipment as needed for duration of works
  • Skips
  • Supply skips as needed for duration of works
  • Hoarding & Protective Gear 
  • Supply and install hoarding when needed to make site secure 
  • Supply and install protective gear as needed to protect non-works areas 
  • Scaffolding
  • Supply and erect scaffolding as needed for duration of works
  • Electrical, Plumbing & Drainage
  • Temporarily reposition electrics, plumbing and drainage as needed (i.e. that may obstruct proposed works)
  • Demolition & Clearance
  • External Area 
  • Lift and dispose of patio
  • Remove and dispose of trellis
  • Demolish and remove existing inspection chamber
  • Demolish and remove external walls to drawings specification, and install temporary load bearing acrow props / steel needles as necessary to support weight of remaining existing structure
  • Internal Area
  • Strip and dispose of existing kitchen, except (a) kitchen carcasses to be kept, stored, protected and reused for new kitchen and (b) fridge/freezer, washer/drier and range cooker to be kept, stored, protected and reused for new kitchen
  • Strip and dispose of existing doors, windows, flooring, ceiling, skirting, architrave and any electrics and plumbing not being retained and reused for works
  • Strip and dispose of existing radiators & the existing boiler in kitchen
  • Strip and dispose of everything in understairs area
  • Subterranean / Groundworks
  • Excavations
  • Excavate for new inspection chamber closer to boundary line per drawings and make good area (by hand likely if cannot get machinery through house as there is no side or rear access)
  • Excavate existing sub-floor area and new area to footprint of proposed extension to depth required to construct new solid sub-floor with wet underfloor heating (approx. depth of 480mm), per drawings (by hand likely if cannot get machinery through house as no side or rear access) 
  • Excavate for foundations per drawings (wall trench foundations 600mm x 6100mm with 1000mm depth, subject to building control requiring further depth; steel column centric pad foundations 800mm x 800mm wide with 1000mm depth, subject to building control requiring further depth) (by hand likely if cannot get machinery through house as no side or rear access)
  • Excavate for drainage runs, at least 750mm deep, compacted (by hand likely if cannot get machinery through house as no side or rear access)
  • Dispose of all surplus excavated materials
  • Foundations
  • Lay wall trench concrete foundations per drawings (600mm x 6100mm with min. 500mm depth, subject to building control requiring further depth)
  • Lay steel column centric pad concrete foundations per drawings (800mm x 800mm with 1000mm depth)
  • Drainage
  • Supply and install subterranean pipes per drawings
  • SVP flow (main bathroom toilet and from understairs toilet) to public sewer under rear garden
  • Other waste water flow to public sewer under rear garden
  • Exterior surface water flow to public sewer under rear garden
  • Supply and install Travis Perkins pea gravel bed and surround, backfilled with soil
  • Internal Subfloor
  • Supply and install all component parts of subfloor, per drawings
  • Compacted sub-base backfill layer as needed
  • Hardcore layer — 150mm
  • Sand blinding layer — 50mm
  • DPM — 1200 gauge 
  • Insulation — 
  • 100mm Celotex or similar flooring insulation board with equivalent properties 
  • 25mm w x 175mm h Celotex or similar flooring insulation board with equivalent properties (to prevent thermal bridging to sides)
  • Separating layer/vapour barrier — 500 gauge
  • Concrete slab (reinforced) — 100mm
  • Screed — 75mm, 1:3 cement sand mix
  • Structural & Exterior
  • Brickwork
  • Cavity walls below DPC  
  • 5500mm along boundary & 5000mm along rear 
  • Cavity to be 100mm wide, using stainless steel ties, per drawings
  • Supply and install concrete blocks below ground, bricks above, per drawings
  • Cavity to be filled with concrete up to 225mm below DPC level
  • Supply and install DPC per drawings
  • Cavity walls above DPC  
  • Supply and build wall with London Brick Company bricks 
  • Air bricks / weep holes per drawings
  • Cavity 100mm wide, using stainless steel ties, per drawings
  • 100mm DriTherm 37 cavity insulation or equivalent with same properties
  • Supply and install twice weathered coping stones on boundary wall
  • Rear cavity wall to have opening of 4000mm x 2100mm for bi-fold glazed doors, area to be prepared and made good for bi-fold installation
  • Steelwork
  • Supply and install steels to structural engineering drawings and calculations 
  • Carpentry
  • Supply and construct lean-to pitched roof structure with min. 18 degree pitch and box gutter along boundary wall section, per drawings
  • Softwood treated rafters 47 x 145mm fixed with screws or nails at 400mm centres
  • 47 x 95mm softwood treated wall plateFixing with galvanised mild steel wall plate straps at maximum 2m centres
  • Softwood treated ridge board 47 x 225mm 
  • Softwood treated hip rafters 
  • Double rafter trim around skylight areas
  • Supply and install builder’s upstands for 2 x skylights, per drawings
  • Roofing
  • Supply and install vapour permeable underlay to manufacturer’s specifications
  • Supply and install counter batten 25 x 50mm and softwood treated tile battens 25 x 38mm with nails or screws
  • Supply and install Marley Mendip Smooth Grey tiles (for low pitched roofs), with ridge and hip tiles to be embedded and pointed in dark colour to match tiles
  • Supply and install black PVC fascia and soffit boards 
  • Supply and install lead flashing, pointing and sealant to be dark colour to match tiles
  • All lead junctions to be formed using code 4 to manufacturer’s specifications 
  • Supply and install GRP to make box gutter watertight
  • Glazing & Doors
  • Bi-fold glazed doors & skylights will be supplied and installed by client/specialist (do not include in quote)
  • Other
  • Supply and install surface water drains per drawings (end-sealed gutter along rear, running to hopper with downpipe to ACO channel along ground surface rear, draining into public sewer in rear garden)
  • Supply and install new inspection chamber, placement per drawings
  • First Fix
  • Carpentry / Joinery
  • Supply and construct new stud wall along understairs area to contain new understairs toilet room
  • Supply and construct door frame for new understairs toilet room
  • Supply and install structural sub-floor on top of existing joists in understairs toilet room area
  • Plumbing & Gas
  • Supply and install good quality wet underfloor heating system for 24m2 floor area (total area already discounts the kitchen unit area which underfloor heating should not go under)
  • Supply and install pipes for feed and waste for kitchen sink, dishwasher, washing machine and for understairs sink
  • Supply and install above ground pipework for understairs toilet (if not already covered under subterranean plumbing/drainage above)
  • Supply and install gas pipes for gas cooker hob, adjust existing pipes as needed for new gas combi boiler & supply and install extra pipes needed for new combi boiler location (per drawings)
  • Electrics
  • Remove existing wiring where needed
  • Supply and install new wiring in extension and new understairs toilet room for all mains outlets (including 2no. ovens and cooker extractor fan supply and toilet extractor fan supply), switches, and lighting
  • Supply and install new wiring for external lights (2no.) and external socket outlet (1no. 2 gang)
  • Supply and install wiring for mains connected smoke/heat alarm and carbon monoxide alarm
  • Supply and install duct work for understairs toilet extractor fan
  • Supply and install 11no. 2 gang metal back / installation boxes
  • Supply and install 7no. 1 gang back / installation boxes 
  • Supply and install electrics for new gas boiler and Hive home heating receiver 
  • Insulation
  • Supply and install 100mm Celotex board or similar insulation with equivalent properties fitted between pitched roof rafters, per drawings
  • Supply and install Rockwool Flexi or similar insulation with equivalent properties for existing kitchen area ceiling/intermediate floor
  • Supply and install Rockwool timber frame slab or similar with equivalent properties for understairs stud wall 
  • Plasterboarding
  • Supply and dot & dab plasterboard all walls of extension (except internal left wall — to be left exposed brick), ready for plastering 
  • Supply and install plasterboard with dry wall screws all of extension ceiling area (boxing in all steels per drawings requirements)
  • Supply and dot & dab plasterboard brick wall areas of understairs toilet, ready for plastering
  • Supply and install plasterboard with dry wall screws underside of staircase (for ceiling of toilet room) and both sides of new stud wall
  • Plastering
  • Internal walls of extension (except internal left wall — to be left as exposed brick)
  • All internal walls and ceiling of new understairs toilet room
  • Hallway side of new stud wall along understairs 
  • Second Fix
  • Plumbing
  • Heating
  • Install and commission new gas combi boiler, connecting to existing house radiator system and new kitchen underfloor wet heating system (to be controlled with Hive device — client supplied)
  • Sanitaryware (toilets, showers, baths, sinks, taps)
  • Install kitchen sink, waste and tap (plumber to provide sink trap; client to supply sink, waste and tap)
  • Install toilet, sink, sink waste and tap in understairs toilet room (plumber to supply sink trap; client to supply all else)
  • Appliances
  • Install and plumb in dishwasher & washer/drier machine (client to supply dishwasher; washer/drier to be used is existing washer/drier)
  • Install cooker gas (cooker to be used is existing duel fuel range cooker)
  • Electrics
  • Heating
  • Electrics for gas boiler as needed
  • Installing client-supplied Hive (smart home heating) receiver to be connected to gas boiler
  • Switches
  • Supply and install MK (or equivalent) white fused spurs for combi boiler, washer/drier, extractor hood, etc
  • Supply and install MK (or equivalent) white switches for remaining appliances
  • Supply and install 2no. 2 gang 2 way MK (or equivalent) white switches for downlights and kitchen island pendants
  • Supply and install 1no. 1 gang 1 way MK (or equivalent) white switch for understairs toilet lighting
  • Supply and install 1no. MK (or equivalent) white fan isolator switch (for understairs toilet extractor fan)
  • Sockets
  • Supply and install 1 or 2 gang MK (or equivalent) white sockets for appliances as applicable (don’t double count if already covered by switches above)
  • Supply and install 7no. 2 gang MK (or equivalent) white sockets
  • Supply and install 1no. basic 2 gang external socket
  • Lighting
  • Supply and install 18no. white bevelled downlights (16 for kitchen, 2 for understairs toilet)
  • Install client-supplied 3no. pendants for over kitchen island
  • Install client-supplied 2no. external wall lights
  • Appliances
  • Already covered by switches/sockets (don’t double quote)
  • Other electrics (such as fans)
  • Install 1no. client-supplied extractor fan in new understairs toilet area
  • Tiling
  • Install floor tiles in all of kitchen extension area (client to supply tiles and grout; contractor to supply adhesive and all other materials and labour)
  • Install tiles 600mm high along kitchen worktop upstand (client to supply tiles and grout; contractor to supply adhesive and all other materials and labour)
  • Install tiles 400mm high on wall immediately above sink in understairs toilet room (client to supply tiles and grout; contractor to supply adhesive and all other materials and labour)
  • Doors
  • Supply and install new Victorian 4 panel style internal door for understairs toilet room and fit client-supplied hardware 
  • Flooring
  • Kitchen floor per above under tiles (don’t double count)
  • Install floating hardwood floor finish with underlay to understairs toilet room (to match hallway — client to supply)
  • Kitchen
  • Install base and wall units, panels, doors, plinths, cornices, splashback, etc (existing carcasses to be used for base and wall units, client to provide all else)
  • Install unit doors hardware (client to provide)
  • Install appliances (client to provide) (don’t double count any already covered above)
  • Kitchen worktop and upstand to be installed by client/specialist (do not include in quote)
  • Skirting & Architraves
  • Supply and install pre-primed ogee style timber skirting for extension, internal area of understairs toilet, and along hallway side of new stud wall
  • Supply and install pre-primed ogee style timber architrave around both sides of understairs toilet doorway
  • Painting & Decorating
  • Preparatory work before painting / papering
  • Prepare all extension internal walls and ceiling surfaces and understairs toilet walls and ceiling surfaces (including hallway side of new stud wall), supplying filler, abrasives and other materials as needed
  • Prepare all woodwork in extension and understairs toilet areas (including skirting and architrave on hallway side) supplying caulk, wood filler, abrasives and other materials as needed
  • Painting / papering
  • Ceilings:
  • Supply Tikkurila Anti-Reflex White 2 matt emulsion and apply 1 mist coat to extension ceiling and understairs toilet ceiling (adhering to manufacturer instructions for using AR 2 as a mist coat)
  • Supply Tikkurila Anti-Reflex White 2 matt emulsion and apply 2 coats to extension ceiling and understairs toilet ceiling
  • Walls:
  • Supply white contract matt or matt emulsion and apply 1 mist coat to all extension internal walls and understairs toilet walls (including hallway side of new stud wall)
  • Supply white scrubbable matt emulsion and apply at least 2 coats to all extension internal walls and understairs toilet walls (including hallway side of new stud wall) per manufacturer’s instructions
  • Woodwork:
  • Supply white water-based wood undercoat and apply 1 coat per manufacturer’s instructions
  • Supply white water-based wood topcoat and apply at least 2 coats per manufacturer’s instructions
  • Site Clearance
  • Remove all debris and rubbish throughout project and at end and dispose of according to any governing sanitary and building materials disposal regulations
  • Remove all building materials remaining after works complete
  • Remove any remaining hoarding and protective gear, and have removed the portaloo and skip
  • Professional clean of works areas (and, to extent affected, existing house areas)

When reading through the above, did you notice that it could be more or less detailed in certain places? If you’d like to dig deeper, use the drop down immediately below.

We’ve deliberately over and under-included certain things in the above Schedule of Works example to make a couple of points. Something like the list above would generally get you to where you need to be for quotes but it could be a bit better. 

Some examples of unnecessary over-inclusion:

  • Under Subterranean / Groundworks > Drainage
  • We wrote “Supply and install Travis Perkins pea gravel bed and surround, backfilled with soil”.
  • There may be instances when you very much do want to specify which supplier you want to use but contractors will have their own arrangements with suppliers and you generally want to let them source materials as they see fit.
  • Also, there’s probably no specific brand worth specifying in this instance either. That may be different though for certain materials, like insulation, where you are aiming to reach a certain quality level, but for general building materials like pea gravel, it’s not going to matter much if at all.
  • Under Subterranean / Groundworks > Internal Subfloor
  • If the drawings already provide sufficient detail, is there any real benefit to listing out the specifics of building up the extension subfloor? Maybe it just unnecessarily risks setting out details in the Schedule of Works that accidentally conflict in some way with the drawings specifications and lead to confusion and misquoting. In instances where the drawings are detailed enough and you can just cross-refer to those drawings, it’s quicker, easier and safer to just leave it at that (or alternatively detail everything and don’t cross-refer to drawings for anything but be certain your descriptions don’t conflict). 

The bigger issues tend to be under-inclusion though. Consider the following:

  • Under Demolition & Clearance > Internal Area
  • The first sub-bullet makes clear that kitchen carcasses and certain appliances are to be kept, stored, protected and reused but it could be more specific.
  • Who is to do what and where? It may seem harmless but it’d be easy for one contractor to innocently interpret what is written as meaning that you will remove the carcasses and appliances and protect and store them. Another might interpret it as them removing the carcasses and appliances and protecting and storing them, but maybe they think they’ll just put them somewhere else in your house.
  • It’s best to be specific. If you want the contractor to store and protect the items, state that. If you want them to store and protect the items somewhere in your house where works aren’t taking place, state that. If you want them to store and protect them in the contractor’s own secured location, state that.
  • A better, more specific sub-bullet could therefore be something like: “Strip and dispose of existing kitchen, except (a) kitchen carcasses to be kept and reused for new kitchen and (b) fridge/freezer, washer/drier and range cooker to be kept and reused for new kitchen. Contractor to protect carcasses, fridge/freezer, washer/drier and range cooker and store in a secure off-site location.”
  • Under Subterranean / Groundworks > Excavations
  • We wrote “(by hand likely if cannot get machinery through house as there is no side or rear access)”.
  • This creates uncertainty. If you were the contractor what would you quote for?
  • In this kind of situation, it would be better to specify how you want them to quote for the variable. So, something more like: “Excavate for new inspection chamber closer to boundary line per drawings and make good area (by hand likely if cannot get machinery through house as there is no side or rear access – therefore quote for machinery base case but, if it will cost extra, also provide a separate contingency cost amount in the event that foundations must be dug by hand).” 
  • Under Subterranean / Groundworks > Foundations
  • We wrote “(…subject to building control requiring further depth)”.
  • This is another example of an uncertain variable.
  • With the aim again of trying to get accurate and fixed pricing where possible, it would be better to change this to something more like: “(… subject to building control requiring further depth – quote for the expected depth but also provide a separate contingency cost amount, on a cost per extra 100mm of depth basis, in the event that building control requires greater depth)”.
  • Under First Fix > Carpentry / Joinery
  • In each of the three sub-bullets under First Fix > Carpentry / Joinery, we have omitted what material should be used and that’s information that’s unlikely to be in the drawings. If it is, no problem. If it isn’t, it really needs more detail.
  • You might assume that the carpenter would use timber for the stud wall and door frame and floorboards for the subfloor but they could opt to use other materials like MDF or metal for example. If you want timber to be used for the wall and door frame, best to specify.
  • For the subfloor, the main options are floorboards, thick chipboard or thick plywood. Which material is used will depend partly on what flooring finish you want – hardwood parquet style flooring needs to be laid on chipboard or plywood. You could also specify thickness if you wanted. A contractor would opt for the default minimum usually, which in many cases will be fine. If you need something thicker, because of flooring finish requirements for example, then you’d best specify thickness also.
  • Under Second Fix > Plumbing
  • We neglected to specify what gas combi boiler. Again, something that’s unlikely to be in drawings.
  • Maybe you don’t care what manufacturer and model of gas combi boiler is installed. Maybe the gas installer has their own preference and it’s fine. Maybe the contractor quotes for the cheapest possible option though in the hope their quote will come in as one of the lowest and they’ll get the job. 
  • Under Second Fix > Doors
  • What specific internal 4 panel door?
  • Again, maybe you don’t care. That’s fine. Be aware though that there are different manufacturers out there producing various kinds of 4 panel internal doors. Some are better than others.
  • Also, there’s no mention of size. Same for the doorway construction. There is a standard size for doorways, but sometimes you’ll want something a little different depending. In our example, perhaps the doorway for the understairs conversion to a toilet room requires that the doorway is a little narrower than the standard. Maybe you won’t be able to use a rectangular door at all and you’ll need to specify a bespoke shaped door of some sort (which may need to be made by a carpenter/joiner). Ideally you know in advance and can specify exactly what you need in terms of size and shape. If not, you could just say something like ‘expected to be standard size’. 
  • What about finish? Generally internal doors are bought either unfinished or pre-finished/primed and ready for a topcoat paint finish. The latter tends to be slightly more expensive. If you haven’t specified, how is the contractor going to know which to quote for? Maybe they just guess. What happens though then when it comes to painting time? Will the decorator include paint and labour time for priming the door as well as applying the top coat? 
  • Under Painting & Decorating
  • Speaking of top coats, are you happy that the contractor or painter might just use whatever white emulsion they decide to use?
  • Maybe the painter has a specific paint they prefer to use and perhaps it’s as good as the next one. If you want to be sure that a good paint is used though, you should probably at least then specify that they are to use one of the higher-end trade brands. If you prefer one over another, you could specify which (i.e. Crown Trade, Dulux Trade, Johnstone’s Trade). You could even go as far as specifying the exact paint (i.e. Johnstone’s Trade Perfect Matt for walls, Tikkurila Anti-Reflex 2 for ceilings, etc). Conversely, if you’d prefer they used cheaper paint to keep costs down, then you could specify that.

There are other things we could query or pick at in our illustrative Schedule of Works. The purpose of the above though is just to help you develop awareness of levels of detail and why you might include or exclude certain information. Ultimately it’ll be down to you. As we mentioned at the very beginning of this page, the residential Schedule of Works tends to fold in some degree of performance or prescriptive specification. How prescriptive you want to be is up to you.

Try to avoid any gaps in information as well as vagaries like “to confirm x, y, z” and “supply and install all electrical fittings (number of fittings to be confirmed)”. If you must include anything like these because you just don’t know yet, it’s best to make clear that the contractor should omit costings for all of those uncertain items and that you (or the professional on your behalf) will ask for updated quotes including those things once they can be reflected properly. Getting cost estimates for uncertain things won’t generally be helpful and will muddy the waters when it comes to comparing quotes.

The foregoing assumes that your Schedule of Works isn’t littered with vagaries and loose ends and that none are for anything major. If you find that you have many or if any are for major parts of the works, probably you’re not yet ready to get quotes and you’d be better off spending more time developing your plans.

An exception to that might be where you want to get the contractors to quote for certain works on a provisional basis only. That can be useful to get pricing so you can then decide if you might instead hire a trade directly to handle that work or DIY in order to save money. It’s better to be upfront about these though, at least for future relationship reasons.

What we’ve done before for work we knew we might do ourselves was to just tell them (verbally, by email or, better, by adding a note to you Schedule of Works) which items we might cut back on to save money if the overall costs were too high. You might see one or two contractors providing quotes with lower costs than normal for those items and increasing other items to cover the difference so that they lose less if you elect to DIY or have someone else handle them but that’ll become obvious side by side other quotes that don’t.

The commonly used written contracts allow for changes to your agreed scope of works with a contractor and require a corresponding price adjustment up or down. They don’t specify how much that price adjustment should be though so, if you think you might want the contractor to take on additional works, it can make sense to pre-emptively include those as provisional works upfront so you can have the contractors ascribe fixed pricing to them before you get to the contract stage. In other words, if you think that you might want them to construct a built-in wardrobe for you for example, you could ask them include it as a provisional works item and provide a fixed cost for it in the quote so that that is what you’d pay if you elect to use them for that additional work later on.

Finally, just to note in terms of presentation, you could use bullets the way we have above or you could put it all into a spreadsheet or set it out in a table in Word. Whatever style you prefer as long as the substance is there and it can be read. If you prepare a spreadsheet or table version, you could additionally consider putting in a column for pricing. The contractors can then just drop in their quoted price for each line item. That would make comparing quotes much easier. Don’t be surprised though if they don’t use your column and instead just send you their usual quote format.

Quotes

STEP 1 — Prepare your list of potential contractors

Through developing your budget, you’ll hopefully already have a list of potential good contractors from whom you’ve gotten rough estimates or obtained an indication that they might be interested in tendering.

If not, read our Finding Good Contractors page for how to go about finding contractors and pull together an initial list of potential options. Call them or send them a brief email, providing a brief description of your project and key information like location and preferred works start dates, to find out if they might be interested in taking on your job. Don’t worry about vetting at this stage. You can do that later if they express interest and you eventually get a good quote from them and believe that they’re a serious contender.

You’ll need to obtain at least 3 quotes so be sure that you have ideally at least 6 potential contractors on your list (bearing in mind that at least some won’t end up tendering quotes or will tender incomplete quotes and the like). 

STEP 2 — Prepare and send out your tender package

The goal is to provide all information that a contractor would need to know to be able to quote accurately. You can always give them a call to find out what they will want — being personable and creating a relationship early on can be far more helpful for streamlining things and increasing the likelihood of engagement.

Usually a tender package would include:

  • Preliminaries
  • Brief description of the project
  • Names and contacts of other parties involved
  • Expectations for what you require from the contractor and by when
  • Ideal potential works start date (note if there’s flexibility)
  • Drawings
  • Architectural
  • Structural
  • Building Regs / Construction
  • Any other drawings you may have like drainage, electrical and heating plans, room layout plans, etc
  • Schedule of Works

If you haven’t done a Schedule of Works, you’ll need to consider what key supplemental information the contractor will need to know (again, you can always just call them to ask).

When including a timeframe for when quotes are to be delivered by and when indicating an ideal works start date, bear in mind that if you particularly want to get quotes from certain potential contractors, you’ll need to be aligned with them. It’s best to suss those things out in advance so you don’t inadvertently preclude certain contractors from tendering just because you set a tendering deadline that they can’t meet or indicate a start date they know they can’t do. That said of course, the point of including a deadline and proposed start date is so you’re not left hanging indefinitely. It’s a bit of a balancing act. The better contractors are often more in demand and simply won’t have the bandwidth to prepare a full quote for you within a short timeframe. Most will also be trying to balance upcoming work for many months in advance so you won’t be the only potential client they’ll be dealing with or considering tendering a quote for.

While it can be dealt with later on, it can often be useful to also deal with some vetting and certain key arrangements upfront. The advantages can be that it gets some of that stuff out of the way and puts tensions on the table to be discussed early on rather than wasting a lot of their and your time only to find out later that, say, a contractor doesn’t have any insurance or refuses to sign any kind of written contract.

If you read over our other Contractor information pages (Finding and Engaging Good Contractors; Insurance (theirs and yours), Warranties and Guarantees, and Contractors and Relationships and Payment Schedules), you’ll see the various additional things that you could enquiring about upfront. Here’s a shortlist of the key items:

  • Vetting
  • Reference(s)
  • Insurance (at least public liability, all risks, and employer)
  • Health and safety policy and records
  • Whether they hire their full team as full-time employees or they sub-contract and, if the latter, who their sub-contractors are and relevant documentation for them
  • Contractual
  • Which form of written contract (JCT or RIBA) do they prefer to use
  • Payment schedule
  • What warranties and guarantees they offer in addition to any terms of the JCT or RIBA contract

For the payment schedule, you could simply ask what the contractor requires. Their response will become what’s known in the negotiation world as anchoring though. Usually you’ll end up closer to the anchor at the end of any negotiation. That means in this case that you’ll likely find it more difficult to get the contractor to move away from whatever payment schedule they specified upfront.

With anything like this, you should therefore consider the best way to frame your request. For instance, rather than asking what the contractor wants to stipulate for payment schedule terms, you could use anchoring to your benefit. You could be the first to specify a preference. Maybe it’s that, in addition to the usual 5% retention for snagging, you ideally want to pay for all works at the end of the project upon building control sign-off or maybe you’d be open to partial payments after each building control inspection stage where building control is satisfied that that stage complies with the relevant Building Regs. If you’re using a Clerk of Works or undertaking that job yourself, you could alternatively link payment to their or your confirmation of satisfaction of work done at pre-specified stages rather than relying only on Building Regs compliance.

As with stipulating timeframes and a works start date though, be mindful of being overly rigid or stating a position too strongly. You want to get potential tensions on the table early but you don’t want to unnecessarily make contractors not want to bother tendering. Ultimately, knowing where the contractor stands and what their strong preferences are (if any) will be useful information, along with quote pricing, for deciding who to progress with.

STEP 3 — Review quotes and have them adjusted as necessary

As you’ll see from our Finding and Engaging Good Contractors page, contractors have a knack for ghosting you even when you think they’re eager to take on the project. Don’t therefore be surprised if some don’t tender quotes at all. Maybe they’re just too busy or decided for one reason or another that your project isn’t for them.

The quotes you do receive will generally be along the same lines as the Schedule of Works illustration set out above, with pricings added (ideally using your pricing column if you added one). Maybe the format or the level of detail will differ, maybe things will be grouped together differently, but the substance will be very similar. (If you’ve skipped straight down to the quotes part of this page, best to read over Schedule of Works first because that’s where much of the useful substance is for when it comes to reviewing quotes also.)

If you’ve sent a detailed and well-thought through Schedule of Works with drawings that provide further various details and specifications, you’d hope that the quotes you get in return will be very evolved and accurately price all items. Fingers crossed for you. The reality is that, even with best intentions and best efforts, they probably won’t.  

One way or another, you’ll have to go through all received quotes and compare them, line by line, to your Schedule of Works and drawings, working through each to ensure that all works are covered, all labour and materials are priced for and that they’re (as close as possible) the same across all quotes so that you’ll have apples to apples comparisons (or at least to understand why you don’t and to adjust accordingly to compensate). 

When you review quotes, pay particular attention to the following:

  • That there are no mistakes (omissions, duplications, errors in descriptions, etc)
  • What materials are being quoted for (especially where you haven’t specified)
  • Any deviations from things specified in your drawings and/or Schedule of Works
  • What does or does not include VAT
  • Any “provisional” or “subject to” wording
  • Any contractual terms embedded in quotes
A note about “Provisional” and “Subject to” Wording

As discussed above, you may want to include in your Schedule of Works (or communicate separately in writing) that you have provisional extra works that you might have the contractors undertake in addition to the core works and that you’d like the contractor to quote for those provisional works so that you have fixed pricing for them. That’s fine and fair because the contractor knows upfront that they’re just potential additional works. They don’t really lose anything if you don’t choose to have the contractor do them. They gain if you do.

Other than provisional extra works, you should be very careful allowing any “provisional” or “subject to” wording to remain in a quote as it’ll ultimately form part of the contract you sign with the contractor. You really want to get to a place where costs are fixed and known in advance, and not changeable aside from whatever the terms of the contract permit. If you allow “provisional” or “subject to” wording to slip through, it undermines that. 

It’s particularly a risk where the contractor has made their pricing provisional or subject to something or other. Often contractors will just throw in “provisional” or “subject to” wording where they can’t yet accurately price for something. Perhaps it’s because they need more specifics to be able to price accurately, which case enlighten them so you can tighten it up. Perhaps quantification just can’t be fully known until works are underway. Perhaps it’s because they just haven’t yet put the time in on their end to work out the exact costs.  

Where you just can’t know exactly what certain works or materials might be upfront and they have to be dealt with during the works phase, you should aim for the contract to govern the adjustment, inclusion or removal of those changing elements where possible, rather than it being covered  by “provisional” or “subject to” wording in the contractor’s quote.

If you really must leave in any qualifying language like “provisional” or “subject to” wording in a quote, it’s better to be very specific about the qualification. For instance, if for foundations, the quotes says “£x.xx for strip foundations per drawings to a depth of 1m subject to building control sign-off”, that can be changed to “£x.xx for strip foundations per drawings to a depth of 1m subject to building control sign-off, and in the event that building control requires a greater depth, an extra “£x.xx per 100mm of depth required”. The goal is to close off open-ended qualifications / loopholes so that any changed amount is agreed in advance. That will help you control your budget and prevent disputes arising later on.

Another approach could be just to agree a contingency amount. Again though, best not to leave that open-ended with something like “contingency amount = £x.xx”. It’d be entirely up to your contractor as to whether something was or was not chargeable under the contingency category. There are a lot of good people working in construction but it’s unwise to leave anything entirely at their discretion. There are many aligned interests between you and a contractor but the contractual relationship is such that there are also strong divergent interests and things will very likely become strained at one point or another over those. Where things are buttoned down, it’ll help reduce the number and significance of those tensions. You could achieve that by making the contingency line item more specific. For example, you could ask the contractor to specify the things they think the contingency amount is needed for and then list the specific instances in which the contingency amount can apply and condition it upon agreement: “total cumulative contingency amount of £x.xx for (1) potential greater depth of foundations, (2) any badly damaged or rotting existing timbers potentially needing replaced and/or (3) any damaged or structurally unsound existing wall needing repair, each subject to agreement with the client”. 

If you have an architect, project manager or clerk of works (or equivalent) overseeing things for you, an even better option is to add a third-party verification requirement. For example, “total cumulative contingency amount of £x.xx for (1) potential greater depth of foundations, (2) any badly damaged or rotting existing timbers potentially needing replaced and/or (3) any damaged or structurally unsound existing wall needing repair, each subject to agreement with the client and verification of extra works undertaken by architect / project manager / clerk of works”. 

Basically, it’s easier and often preferable for a contractor to avoid being specific but it’s very much preferable for you to be as specific as possible. This is one of the many tensions in a contractor/client relationship. You need to tactfully and sensitively push to close all gaps and potential loopholes in a fair way. 

A note about Contractual Terms Embedded in Quotes

Some contractors will include contractual terms in or at the end of their quotes or just cross-refer to some separate terms and conditions. If just a cross-reference, get hold of a copy of the terms and conditions. Be wary and read any Ts&Cs carefully. The contractor may deliberately try to get something in there to cut-across the main contract terms in their own interests but, often, it’s just that they can unwittingly cause problems.

Contractors often develop their own list of Ts&Cs of things they need to make clear or cover-off to reduce their liability exposure or whatever else may be relevant in their experience. Many are ultimately fine and understandable — contractors get exposed to all sorts of risks themselves and need to try to ensure that they’re not on the hook for something they shouldn’t be.

Where any of these Ts&Cs are already covered in the contract you’ll sign with the contractor though, that contract should govern, not the contractor\’s Ts&Cs. Allowing similar but slightly different terms to remain in quotes or to be incorporated by reference into a contract can cut across and undermine the contract’s language.

Where something isn’t covered by the contract, you’d need to give careful thought as to whether or not it’s something you agree to or not and that it doesn’t cut-across any other part of the contract you’ll sign before you agree to leave that particular term or condition in their quote (whether expressly or incorporated by reference in the quote to a set of separate Ts&Cs).

To the extent there are any issues with quotes received, you need to find a way to raise the various issues with the relevant contractor. Often it’s easiest to mark up the quote (by hand or digitally) or set out a bullet list of discussion points in an email, followed by a call with the contractor to chat through things. In theory, after the call, they should have a number of takeaways and should be able to adjust or correct their quote accordingly and then send a revised version. You may need to do this exercise a number of times. 

It can be tricky to get contractors to fully engage in this. Many seem to want to just present you with their first draft and be done with it, regardless of whatever problems there might be with it. The quote will form part of your contract with them though so it’s very unwise to accept that. 

Ultimately, you need to get to a place where the quotes accurately reflect all works and that they’re all priced for and fixed, aside from any variables for which you’ve agreed specified limitation parameters (see the “‘provisional’ or ‘subject to’ wording” dropdown above if you haven’t already read all of that information). 

If getting quote issues addressed in a timely fashion is really holding back your ability to compare quotes properly, you could temporarily adjust the problematic parts of any quote yourself. For instance, if the pricing for certain items is missing, you could factor in a cost equivalent to what the other quotes have provided. Ditto if a quote leaves certain items as provisional. You’ll of course want to get these kinds of things properly dealt with before you move toward further vetting and signing any contract but it’ll at least help you get the lay of the land.

Assuming the quotes are apples to apples or you can get them to that point, you should have a clear picture of how each contractor compares to each other price wise. 

Don’t get too fixated on costs for specific line items. Contractors will price for things in different ways. The more important thing is comparing the sub-total and/or total costs. Say if two contractors quote the same sub-total for getting your loft conversion project to the end of 1st fix for example, it probably doesn’t matter if one is charging more for carpentry and the other is charging more for 1st first electrics.

Contractors tend to have totals in mind, factoring in their expected profit margin. They often don’t mind what the breakdown is (in other words, how they get to that total) but they do very much care about the total. That means that if you start trying to cherry pick and haggle over every line item using other quotes as leverage, you could end up with one fewer contractors engaged in the process. Of course, if there are clear issues with any line items (typos, missing, duplications, etc), definitely get those corrected.

What can happen through the Schedule of Works and quotes process, particularly where they haven’t prepared a realistic budget, is that the client, upon receiving quotes, realises that they can’t afford the project as planned. The client then starts to adjust things, including wanting to remove certain works from quotes with a view to hiring certain trades directly (and therefore not paying the contractor 20% or so in added cost) or taking the DIY option. It’s often part of the process but you may find that some contractors just won’t want to take on work that falls below a certain total contract value threshold.

You may also find that some contractors appear to price certain line items to cover themselves in the event that you elect to have them do fewer of the works. For example, certain works that people often seek to DIY when they realise they need to save money, like painting and decorating, might be priced much lower in one quote compared to the next but overall totals are equivalent. The contractor who set a lower fixed cost for those then loses less if you take that work away from them (and you, correspondingly, save less). So, it’s worth paying some attention to the specific costs given for any works you think that you’re likely to not have the contractors ultimately do, though, as discussed above already, hopefully you’ve been upfront with the contractors about that potential and they’ll all have factored that information in accordingly.

STEP 4 — Finish vetting, agree contract terms and decide which contractor to run with

Pricing isn’t everything. If you’ve included the request to provide things like insurance documentation, you’ll also be ahead of the curve in terms of vetting. You’ll also have a much clearer sense of which contractors are more organised, on top of things and who you’ll potentially have a better relationship with throughout the project.

You should supplement that information by completing the vetting process (see the various ways to vet for a good contractor that we list on our Finding and Engaging Good Contractors page).

You should also work through with the contractor any of the key matters that we list on our Contracts and Relationships page so that you can be sure you’re in agreement on those and able to move forward and sign a contract if you select them and they select you.

A Small Tip For Big Tips

If Renoviva has helped you, you can help Renoviva by leaving us a tip.

Pass It On

Think others would find this page useful? Message it. Email it. Post it.

Make Connections

Come mingle with other renovators like you. Get support and share your experiences.

Scroll to Top