Reno Info hub
Welcome
If this is your first visit, start with this page. It sets out the basics.
Otherwise, you can find more in depth pages using the Hub menu above.
The Basics
Undertaking a residential renovation can be full-on, even with the help of various professionals. Things can quickly become overwhelming to the extent that you’ll want to abandon it all and go to Bali to set up a yoga studio instead. So let’s start slow.
The first step is to wrap your head around the basics and get a good sense of the overall process.
The 3 Phases
A home renovation (whether a loft conversion, extension or internal refurbishment) has 3 distinct phases:
A few user guidance pointers before we dive into each of those phases.
Most, if not all, of this page will be relevant for larger projects like loft conversions and extensions.
For smaller projects like internal refurbishments or remodelling (kitchen renovations and bathroom renovations), some parts of this page may not be relevant or will be less relevant. For instance, build over agreements, the Party Wall Act and/or planning might not be relevant for small refurbishment projects. You might also look more toward engaging specific trades individually rather than engaging a contractor (though much of the contractor information applies also to trades so don’t skip it entirely).
It ultimately depends on what your particular project involves. You’ll quickly discover reading over the summaries below what will be relevant for your project and what won’t.
Also, although things are laid out in the order they are usually and ideally done, in practice, they won’t necessarily be so strictly chronological.
Things change, issues crop up and you’ll need to roll with the punches but you don’t want to end up in a Muhammad Ali rope-a-dope type situation where you’re getting pummelled hoping to deliver a knock-out punch at the end. The more you can plan, organise and prepare in advance, the better off you’ll be. You can stay off the ropes and hold your own from the start.
Pre-Works
The pre-works stage involves everything that you need to get done before the works begin.
Below is an overview of key things to consider during the pre-works phase, in the rough order they should be done. When you’ve had a read through all topics that are relevant to your project, you can build (no pun intended) on them by using the Read More links or the Hub menu at the top right of this website.
The best thing you can do at the beginning is to develop your renovation plans yourself before approaching any professionals. Bear in mind that this usually takes much longer than you might expect it to.
Try to get a clear handle on what you want. Get specific. Use online resources and speak with fellow renovators to discover what your options are — layout, aesthetics, functionality, financing, timings and so on. Everyone’s keen to just get going as soon as possible but it’ll save you a lot of time and money in the longer run if you take the time upfront to really dig deep and fully consider what you want.
Let’s say you plan to do a loft conversion. The common scenario is that you immediately set about trying to find an architect. If they reply at all, you discover quickly that they all ask you what type of loft conversion you want to get done, with what layout and how much your budget is. You don’t have a clue and say so. You either never hear from them again, you end up engaging in a few design sessions with them and they produce some drawings and that’s your lot, or you end up spending a small (and unnecessary) fortune working through all of the potential variables with them. You’d also likely be unaware that you didn’t even need to use an architect in the first place and could’ve gone with a much cheaper option.
Have you considered, for example, what kind of loft conversion you could potentially get done for your type of property in your area? What have your neighbours had done? Have you pulled their architectural drawings from your local planning authority’s website to see what layout they opted for? Are there other possible layouts? What’s your preferred layout? What cost implications will certain layouts have compared to others? How many rooms do you want to end up with? Do you want an extra bathroom up there? What about the aesthetics of a potential loft conversion? Do you know clearly what interior design styles you like and don’t like? What about glazing? Exterior tiling? The lighting and electrical fixtures options? Do you know that you could engage an architectural designer or a design and build company instead of a fully qualified architect? What about your local planning regime? Are you hoping to do the conversion within the permitted development rules? What are the chances of getting approval if you need to do a full planning application instead? What do permitted development and full planning permission even mean?
Don’t worry, the Reno Info Hub is here to help you develop your awareness, and your fellow renovators over in the Renovators’ Forum are a great resource too.
Spend at least a couple of weeks developing your plans unless you’re already very clued in and good to go. There’s usually a lot more to research and to mull over than you’d think.
We often significantly underestimate costs. It’s tempting to try to find out a rough overall cost figure online from some article or from someone you know who once did a loft conversion in 1995. Unless you have endlessly deep pockets though, you should spend time preparing your own budget early on. Having a rough overall figure can be useful for deciding whether or not you should even bother wasting your time thinking about that lovely new extension and kitchen you want. Beyond that, drafting your own preliminary budget is the way to go; as time consuming and as tedious as it might be.
To initially get a super rough indication of whether or not your project is purely wishful thinking, there are various decent renovation budget calculators available online. Be wary about relying solely on these though as they can often be very misleading.
The reality is that the “how much will my renovation project cost?” is a “how long is a piece of string?” question. Costs can vary enormously depending on a variety of factors, like what type of works you plan to undertake, the quality of finish you want, what area of the country you live in, the type of property you have and its current condition, how hot or cold the market is for professionals, and so on. That’s also why when you Google for “house renovation cost”, “bathroom renovation cost”, “kitchen renovation cost”, “loft conversion cost”, “house extension cost” and so on, you quickly discover that the website you end up on doesn’t actually tell you what the costs will be.
Once you decide that your project could potentially be a reality, doing your own preliminary budget will give you a ballpark total for what your particular project is really likely to cost. It’s also extremely helpful for developing your plans effectively as well as not unnecessarily overspending.
The budget can be rough initially. For it to be truly useful though, you’ll need to get to a point where you can lay out all potential costs and ascribe relatively realistic estimated costs to them. As your plans evolve, you’ll be able to develop and tighten up your budget bit by bit until it becomes an accurate reflection of all the things that are going to cost you money and how much money they’ll cost you.
There are 4 steps:
Step 1 — Financing
To set a realistic budget, you’ll need to get a realistic sense of how much money you’ll have to spend.
There’s a wealth of good financing related information out there already. Just do a quick online search and you’ll get the gist of the options. You’ll then be able to decide which, if any, you can potentially go with.
As a super quick overview, there are in most circumstances only three options for financing:
- Savings
- Income
- Credit (mortgage, unsecured loan, credit cards, 0% financing purchases)
Step 2 — Work out what is likely to cost you money
List all of the things that will likely cost something. Err on the side of over-inclusion, not under-inclusion.
Start high-level and work toward making your list as detailed as possible.
Step 3 — Work out the likely costs
Two big categories are “client-provided” items and professional services.
“Client-provided” items are the various things that you will have to provide. They are generally the things that will be visible – the kitchen, the bathroom sanitaryware, lighting, tiling, flooring and so on. Do some preliminary shopping to get realistic costs.
For professional services, ask family, friends, neighbours to get rough cost indications for your type of project in your area and for your type of property. Be sure that their project was similar to yours though or adjust their figures accordingly, otherwise they won’t be helpful. Where you can’t get fairly realistic figures that way, you’ll need to find some good professionals and ask them for estimates. Potential professionals whom you might need to engage are, depending on your project:
- Architect, architectural technologist, architectural designer or a design and build company
- Structural engineer
- Drainage surveyor
- Party wall surveyor
- Building control
- Interior designer
- Kitchen designer
- Contractors (and/or any specific trades)
- Garden designer and/or landscapers
For tips on how to find good professionals, click Read More below.
Add a contingency of 15-20% of whatever total you end up with. Don’t omit this. Nearly everyone thinks they won’t need it. Nearly everyone does end up needing at least some of it.
Step 4 — Adjust or Abandon
If your total is higher than your expected or preferred upper limit, adjust plans in light of budget costs. That may simply entail replacing a few of the more expensive client-provided items with less costly options. It might require a more significant overhaul.
Often you can find ways to reduce costs and still effectively get the overall result you want, albeit with a few adjustments or small concessions.
If your total budget figure is far beyond your upper limit though, and you can’t find ways to adjust plans and reduce costs in a palatable way, you may need to shelve plans indefinitely or until you can raise more finances.
If you can proceed, track actual costs against your estimated amounts as the project progresses so you can see if you’re staying within budget or not. If not, you’ll need to readjust plans and/or rebalance your budget again.
Expect to spend at least a week on budget prep initially. Add at least a week or two longer if you need to reach out to professionals to get estimates. (To try to speed up that process, best to follow up emails by phoning people rather than sending emails and waiting indefinitely for replies).
Main Drawings
If you need to:
- Obtain a lawful development certificate or planning permission from your local planning authority, you’ll need architectural drawings.
- These drawings set out the building from different perspectives, both as it exists and how it will be after the proposed building works, with applicable dimensions.
- They’re used primarily for planning permission purposes.
- Make any structural changes, you’ll need structural drawings.
- These drawings come from a structural engineer and set out the various structural requirements for the works, including any particular specifications and calculations.
- Appoint building control and comply with Building Regulations that can’t be self-certified by a competent person, you’ll likely need Building Regulations drawings.
- These drawings merge the architectural / planning drawings, the structural drawings and any other relevant plans, like drainage, and set out many of the various building regulation requirements and various build specifications. The specifications can go beyond the minimum requirements provided by the Building Regulations.
- Get contractors to build anything to plan, you’ll likely need at least the Building Regulation drawings or what are called construction drawings.
- For common residential projects, contractors are often fine using the Building Regulations drawings (ideally augmented with the key construction method and materials specifications).
- Depending on your project though, you may need more detailed construction drawings that provide further detail on the various technical construction and materials specifications.
Often, for the common renovation projects like loft conversions and extensions, you’d end up with architectural drawings, structural engineer drawings and at least the building regulation drawings augmented with some key technical construction and materials specifications.
Surveys
To create these drawings, a survey of your property will need to be carried out. This will involve someone coming round to measure all of the relevant parts of the property. Those measurements are then used to accurately depict the relevant parts of your property in CAD digital format. That then serves as the base for the various drawings.
Other Drawings
Other more ancillary drawings you may need to consider obtaining are:
- Drainage
- These set out the positions of the relevant drainage (i.e. sewers). Likely needed for any renovation project that will entail subterranean works and require knowledge of what pipes lay hidden underground. Usually, you’d engage a drainage CCTV company to come round to survey the drainage system with CCTV. They then take that footage and certain measurements they take and produce a report, the graphical and measurement elements of which get added to your technical drawings.
- Electrical and heating
- These set out the placement and specifications for any electrical and heating elements, such as sockets, switches, lighting, appliances, boilers, radiators and so on. Depending on your arrangement with whoever you use to produce your architectural drawings, these may be included in a variation of your architectural drawings.
- Kitchen, bathroom or other room layout designs
- These set out the specifics for each space, as needed. For example, a kitchen design would set out the placement of the kitchen units, sink, taps and appliances. A bathroom design would set out the placement of a bath, toilet, sink, taps, showers, mirrors, and what tiles are to be used.
- Gardens
- A garden design drawing would set out the proposed landscape design. A planting design would set out the proposed planting specifics for the garden.
Allow at least a month or two for getting good professionals lined up.
Firstly, it takes time to find them.
Secondly, very few, in our experience, are speedy about replying to enquiries. We all tend to think that professionals will scramble to get the work from us but, nope. Many are too busy providing top notch services to other people, taking the dog for a walk or brushing their teeth.
Thirdly, even when you get a reply, it can often take time to get to the point where work actually begins.
It can then take anything from a few days to a few months for final drawings to be produced.
A build over agreement is a contract between you and your local water authority (or whichever company or public body that’s responsible for public sewage pipes). It’s required when you’re building over or near a public sewer or lateral drain. (A lateral drain is a public drain that connects private sewer pipes to public pipes.)
The water authority has a right of access to public sewers. You can’t therefore build over or near a public sewer unless the authority’s consent is first obtained. Well, you could, but you’d risk having to take down your lovely new extension so the water authority can access the sewer.
In England and Wales, you must tell your neighbours if you want to carry out building work near or on your shared property boundary. The Party Wall etc. Act 1996 (the Party Wall Act for short) sets out a system that’s aimed at trying to prevent and resolve disputes between neighbours. Neighbours can’t prevent you from carrying out legitimate works but, where it applies, you need to follow the requirements of the Party Wall Act or you could find yourself in court. You’d also have problems selling your property in the future.
It’s probably easiest to just think of “party” as meaning “shared”. A party wall = a shared wall. The Party Wall Act doesn’t just cover walls though, it also covers certain other shared structures.
The first step is to determine if any of your proposed building works will fall under the Party Wall Act. You will likely have to deal with the Party Wall etc. Act 1996 if you intend to carry out building work which involves one of the following:
- Building a freestanding wall or a wall of a building up to or astride the boundary with a neighbouring property.
- Work on an existing party wall or party structure or building against such a party wall or party structure.
- Excavating (i.e. digging foundations) near a neighbouring building.
Common examples include:
- Building a new wall astride the boundary of your and your neighbour’s property.
- Building a new wall on your own land at the boundary between your and your neighbour’s property.
- Knocking down and rebuilding a party wall.
- Removing a chimney breast from a party wall.
- Cutting into a wall that you and your neighbour share (i.e. inserting a steel beam into a wall separating your and their house).
- Making a party wall taller, shorter or deeper.
- Digging below the foundation level of a neighbour’s property within, depending on the depth, 3 or 6 metres of their property.
The second step is to prepare notifications to formally give to the relevant neighbour(s), in the manner and with the substance required by the Party Wall Act. They can then consent or not consent to your plans by replying with their own formal notice, again in the manner and with the substance required by the Party Wall Act.
In the event that they don’t reply within a specified timeframe (usually 14 days) or if they don’t consent, then you and that neighbour will be considered in dispute under the Party Wall Act. Being in dispute triggers dispute resolutions provisions of the Party Wall Act, which include the appointment of one or more party wall surveyors. A party wall surveyor is a mediator who is engaged to survey the relevant properties. They then draw up what is called a Party Wall Award (aka a Party Wall Agreement). The Party Wall Agreement is a binding document that sets out the timings and conditions for the works to proceed.
Beware of how much time party wall matters can take to work through.
The initial notifications require, among other things, details of the proposed building works. It’s recommended that you include any architectural, structural and/or building regs drawings you may have to fully convey all relevant details of the proposed works.
The timing for sending notifications is therefore usually after you’ve received at least final drafts of the relevant drawings.
Bear in mind that the Party Wall Act also stipulates that notification has to be given at least 1 or 2 months (depending on what works are proposed) in advance of the works commencing.
You also need to allow for the potential that you end up in dispute and some additional time is needed to appoint one or more surveyors and for them to do what they need to do.
So, for instance, you give your neighbour a notice on the 1st of January. Your neighbour does not reply within 14 days. You’re then in dispute under the Party Wall Act. You appoint a surveyor and your neighbour agrees to using that surveyor within 10 days. That surveyor will then require some time to conduct a survey, if needed, and to produce a Party Wall Award.
Generally speaking and excluding minor internal works like bathroom renovations or redecorating, unless it’s a permitted development, you need to apply for planning permission from the council.
If it’s permitted development, the practice is to apply for what’s known as a lawful development certificate. You’ll likely be asked to produce that upon selling the property in the future.
The Planning Portal has some very helpful information in this respect as well as interactive guides to help you determine what is and what is not subject to planning permission requirements. That’s usually the best place to start.
Building Regulations
There are Building Regulations. Many of them. They set the minimum standards for the construction of, and alterations to, most building works.
If you’re embarking on doing an extension, a loft conversion or general renovation work (even if just a bathroom renovation), you’ll need to ensure that it’s done in compliance with the Building Regulations.
The good news is that the professionals you’ll hire will (hopefully) know about the applicable Building Regulations. It’s still wise to try to suss out what the main relevant Building Regs are for your type of project though. Just to have a broad sense of things and because you’re ultimately the one who is responsible for ensuring that the works are done in compliance with the applicable Building Regs.
- If you’d like to terrify yourself by seeing just how many Building Regulations there are and how detailed they can get, have a quick flick through this 1,500 page document that collates the regulations for England (as of March 2023).
- Don’t worry though! There are resources online that you can use to quickly find the main Building Regs that will be most relevant. See, for example, the Planning Portal’s list of common projects that also set out which elements of the project are subject to building regulations.
Building Control
Building Control refers to the persons authorised to check and enforce compliance with the Building Regulations.
Building Control is done by:
- Your local authority building control or LABC for short (usually your council), or
- An Approved Inspector (a private sector individual or company authorised to carry out building control work in England and Wales).
There are two application options for each:
- Submit full plans with details of the proposed building works for approval before the works are carried out (called a “Full Plans Application” with your LABC or a “Plans Certificate Application” with an Approved Inspector), with subsequent inspections to check that works actually adhere to those pre-approved plans.
- Submit a notice of building works (called a “Building Notice” by your LABC and an “Initial Notice” by an Approved Inspector), with compliance with Building Regulations checked only through subsequent inspections at key stages of the project.
The full plans pre-approval approach can take up to 5 weeks or, if you agree, up to 2 months from the date you submit your application if you opt for using your local authority building control. Timing for an approved inspector will depend.
For the notice approach, work can start 2-5 days after your notice has been submitted, depending on whether you opt for your LABC or an Approved Inspector and their respective timeliness.
Competent Persons
For some types of work you can use a competent person scheme. Competent person schemes are a way for tradespersons to prove their ability to carry out certain work to the required standards, instead of having to apply for Building Regulations approval from building control. Tradespersons who are registered with a scheme can self-certify that their work complies.
Common works covered by competent person schemes are electrics (NIC EIC), plumbing (APHC), replacement of windows (FENSA), gas boiler installations (Gas Safe), and roofing work (NFRC). The government provides a list of schemes here.
If you’re only having work done that’s covered by competent person schemes, you can use the relevant competent person(s) only. You won’t have to apply for any approvals directly with building control.
If you’re having other works done that require compliance with the Building Regs and those are not covered by a competent person scheme, then you’ll have to obtain approval from building control.
A contractor directly employs or hires on a per day or per project basis general construction workers and the various trades. They manage and carry out construction work.
Generally, you’ll need a contractor if you’re undertaking a significant renovation project and not looking to fully project manage, including hiring all the general labour and trades yourself. The following are the key things to consider in relation to contractors.
If you’re undertaking something smaller like an bathroom refurbishment, you might be better off just hiring the required trades directly. Either way, much of the following will still apply to individual trades.
Finding and Engaging a Good Contractor and Trades
- It’s best to focus on your local area. You’ll find that builders and tradespersons won’t want to travel too far and the further they have to travel the more it’ll cost you.
- The main options for finding contractors and trades are:
- Get recommendations from neighbours, friends, family, local social media groups, and/or other professionals.
- Keep your eyes open around the neighbourhood. If others in the area are having works done, contractors likely be an advertisement banner outside their property (or alternatively knock on the door and ask who the contractors are). There may also be contractor offices in your area that you’ll spot or find on Google Maps.
- Use professional accreditation or industry websites.
- Use search engines like Google.
- Use other Internet search tools like Checkatrade.com
- Finding good contractors and trades is harder. The best you can do is:
- If recommended, ask whoever has recommended them what the pros and cons were.
- Check FMB and TrustMark.
- Check online reviews (Google, Trustpilot, etc) but beware of fake or coerced reviews.
- Ask for references and examples of their recent work.
- Ask for and check their insurance documentation.
- Ideally also ask for their health and safety policy, accident records and any applicable health and safety executive enforcements.
- Check their company information on Companies House. This information can sometimes throw up potential red flags (i.e. there’s a history of the directors/contractors setting up and dissolving companies, which may indicate that they have wound up the old companies and set up new ones to avoid financial or legal liability problems).
- Trying to get good contractors and trades locked into your project is like attempting to catch steam with a tennis racket. Many people assume that they’re going to fall all over themselves to get the work. It depends on the state of the market but you’ll most likely find that they are not necessarily all that keen. The thing is, their perspective can be very different to yours. Some jobs can be better than other jobs. Working for some people can be better than working for other people. Working in some areas can be better than working in other areas. Contractors and trades have finite time and resources. There are various things that they’ll consider to try to invest their time and resources well to get the best results for their business. Finding and engaging good contractors in particular is a competitive process and it can take quite some time to find the right fit.
Schedules of Works and Quotes
- A schedule of works, also known as specification and schedule of works (SSW for short) is just a document that lists the various works that are to be done. They can be very high level, broadly laying things out, or very detailed, specifying each component part of the works, what construction methods are to be used and what exact materials are to be used. They can also be presented very simplistically or formatted to look very fancy. They are used to obtain quotes from contractors.
- A quote is just a document issued by a business outlining the price of what certain things will cost. They can range from very high level with only headline descriptions and figures to very detailed descriptions given for each item and their pricing.
- Unless your architectural designer or another professional is handling this for you, potential contractors will need to know what to quote for. For some projects, you might be able to get away with just sending them the Building Regs drawings (augmented for certain construction and materials specifications) or even better if they’re full construction drawings that provide further detail concerning construction methods and materials. Often though, they’ll need a SSW in addition to whatever drawings you provide. It’s worth attempting to prepare a SSW if someone isn’t handling this for you. Not least because you’ll have to review (hopefully detailed) quotes from contractors and those quotes are effectively the same substance as SSWs but with costings added.
Contracts and Relationships
- There are standardised contracts you can (and should) use. For example, the JCT Building Contract For a Homeowner/Occupier (who has not appointed a consultant to oversee the work) or the RIBA domestic building contract.
- The contract can help to clarify and record agreed terms and to protect parties in the event something goes wrong. It’s vital that you have a contract in place but you ideally don’t want to find yourself having to rely on it because you may find that enforcing it is harder and costlier than you might think. It’s no replacement for a good working relationship. There are many aligned incentives and interests between contractors and their clients but there are also many conflicting incentives and interests. It’s a virtual certainty that tensions will arise and tempers will flare. You need to give some forethought to what will potentially lead to conflict and how to maintain a good working relationship.
- Unless your architectural designer or another professional is handling this for you, potential contractors will need to know what to quote for. For some projects, you might be able to get away with just sending them the Building Regs drawings (augmented for certain construction and materials specifications) or even better if they’re full construction drawings that provide further detail concerning construction methods and materials. Often though, they’ll need a SSW in addition to whatever drawings you provide. It’s worth attempting to prepare a SSW if someone isn’t handling this for you. Not least because you’ll have to review (hopefully detailed) quotes from contractors and those quotes are effectively the same substance as SSWs but with costings added.
Insurance (theirs and yours), Warranties and Guarantees
- You need to ensure that your contractors have adequate insurance in place. They should have public liability insurance and “all risks” cover.
- Usually your property and contents insurance provider requires you to let them know if you’re undertaking significant works to your property before that work commences. This is basically so that they can qualify their insurance coverage, meaning that they will not be liable for various things, such as water damage due to any roofing work going on. The contractors’ insurance should fill certain of those gaps in theory but not all. You can, and probably should, also get home renovation insurance.
- For peace of mind and cover during the post-works period, you should also consider during the planning phase what warranties/guarantees any potential contractor offers, what that warranty/guarantee covers and for how long.
Payment Schedules
- A payment schedule sets out how much money is payable when.
- The golden rule is: don’t prepay for anything to the extent you can avoid it!
Works
What works are needed and how they’re done is one of the bigger learning curves for the uninitiated. It’s also essential knowledge for being able to review and finalise contractor quotes, and for being able to monitor what building work is being done when and how. It’s also important for handling snagging when the main works phase is done.
You can categorise things into buckets. Handily, these also follow the order in which the works are generally done.
Below is a high-level non-exhaustive list covering an extension, loft conversion and general internal refurbishment. If you’re only doing a loft conversion, some of the below won’t be relevant (you probably won’t have any groundworks needing done for example). Likewise if you’re only doing an extension or an internal refurbishment like a kitchen renovation.
Different people use different terminology for these buckets and the descriptions of works. They may also group one or more together in differing ways but you’ll see the same things crop up time and time again.
If some of the terms or descriptions go over your head, that’s okay. Try copying the term into Google images as an easy way to see what something is. You can also find lots more detail along with photos of each of the stages on other pages of this website. The more you understand the different stages of works and what they entail, the better off you’ll be. It’s actually much easier than it initially seems.
The below is just introductory. Once you’ve gotten a handle on the basic overview of the works phase, if you haven’t already, you should read through our Schedules of Work and Quotes page to develop your awareness further.
- Clearing the space (things like moving furniture out, to the extent not already done)
- Permits (for things like parking)
- Sanitary and health and safety (things like renting a portaloo and setting up a first aid station on site)
- Installing hoarding and protective gear (to block off access to certain areas or to protect certain areas and parts of the property)
- Skips (for disposing of site waste)
- Scaffolding (for accessing parts of the property from the exterior)
- Electrical, plumbing and drainage (things like temporarily repositioning things to the extent they will get in the way and/or supplying and fitting any temporary kitchen as needed)
- External
- Demolish and remove any external areas to be cleared (things like patios, trellis, inspection chambers, pipes, etc)
- Demolish and remove all walls, ceilings and roofs being replaced (installing any acrow props, etc, where needed)
- Remove windows and exterior doors being replaced
- Internal
- Gut existing kitchen and bathroom(s)
- Remove all heating related items being replaced (radiators, boiler, pipes, etc)
- Remove all existing woodwork being replaced (doors, skirting, architraves, flooring, etc)
- Excavate land for foundations and new flooring (for an extension)
- Lay foundations (things like concrete into trenches, concrete foundation pads, etc)
- Drainage, such as any new manhole or inspection chamber, any required pipes (drainage, ventilation) and related bridging and guttering for subterranean pipes and plumbing.
- Construct subfloor (the new flooring area for an extension)
- Brickwork (any building of or altering brick walls)
- Steelwork (installing the steel beams and columns that are used to support and/or reinforce the building structure)
- Carpentry (any structural carpentry like columns to support steel beams & framework for roofing)
- Roofing (any new roofing or changes to roofing, fitting fascia and soffits, etc)
- Glazing and doors (any windows, skylights, patio doors, exterior doors, etc)
- Other (installing rainwater drainage, etc)
- Carpentry / Joinery (things like internal joists and beams, stud walls, doorways, etc)
- Plumbing and gas (things like internal heating, water supply and waste water pipes, installing gas boiler, etc)
- Electrics (internal and external as needed, including wiring for heating, switches, sockets, lighting, appliances, and any other electricals like safety alarms)
- Insulation (insulating cavities in internal flooring, ceilings and walls)
- Plasterboarding (walls and ceilings)
- Plastering (walls and ceilings)
- Plumbing
- Heating
- Sanitaryware (toilets, showers, baths, sinks, taps)
- Appliances
- Electrics
- Heating
- Switches
- Sockets
- Lighting
- Appliances
- Other electrics (such as fans)
- Tiling
- Doors
- Flooring (carpets, hardwood floor, etc)
- Kitchen
- Base and wall units, panels, plinths, cornices, splashback, etc
- Worktops
- Skirting and architraves
- Preparatory work before painting or papering
- Painting or papering
* A note about first fix and second fix. If you have a look elsewhere online, you’ll quickly notice that what constitutes “first fix” work is not clear. It’s one of those terms that different people use to mean different things. Broadly, it’s often used to mean one of two things. The first is all the work up to and including when the internal walls are plastered, with all hidden plumbing and electrics done. The second is only the work done after the structure has been done and weatherproofed (load bearing walls, roof, etc), up to and including when internal walls are plastered, with all hidden plumbing and electrics done. Our understanding and use is the latter. To ensure you’re able to communicate effectively with the trades involved, to review contractor quotes and to monitor work done, you should clarify with them upfront as to what they take the term to mean.
Post-Works
You think that when the trades have packed up and gone home, then that’s it? Not quite.
When the work is done, don’t forget to immediately let your insurer know that it’s all done so that your full insurance cover can be reinstated.
Snagging is the process of checking for and having the contractors fix the various minor faults with the works. For example, any issues with roofing, drainage, plumbing or electrics, carpentry or joinery, or wall, flooring and/or decorating finishes.
There will likely be quite a few issues. You should pull together a list of those issues and update it if you find additional issues. Pass the list onto the contractors for them to address within the agreed timeframe.
- Completion Certificate / Final Certificate
- The Completion Certificate (if you used the local building control body) or the Final Certificate (if you used an approved inspector) certifies that the works were carried out in compliance with the applicable building regulations.
- This certificate is very important so make sure you get one once the works have been completed. You will need it if/when you later try to sell your property.
- Gas and Electrics Certificates
- Each of these, respectively, certify that gas and electrical work has been carried out in accordance with the applicable building regulations and go to supporting the Completion Certificate / Final Certificate for any gas and/or electrical work done.
- You’ll likely receive a copy of the gas safe certificate from Gas Safe Register. You can get a copy of the electrical certificate from your electrician (or the contractors).
- FENSA certificate
- The Fenestration Self-Assessment Scheme (FENSA) is a government-authorised scheme that monitors building regulation compliance for the replacement of windows and doors. It enables glazing professionals to install windows and doors and for a FENSA certificate to be issued certifying as to compliance with building regulations in lieu of your having to seek approval from building control.
- If you’re doing an extension, loft conversion or other work that requires building control approval for which you will receive a Completion Certificate / Final Certificate, you do not need a FENSA certificate.
- You should receive a FENSA certificate for any replacement of existing glazing that’s not part of the works.
Things do go wrong with various products that are bought and installed as part of the overall renovation project. Be sure to get from your contractors all manufacturer and product warranties and guarantees (for appliances, etc).
There are sometimes issues where contractors buy certain products on behalf of their clients. Clients then find that they can’t rely on the warranties and guarantees because they weren’t technically the purchaser. You should therefore ensure that any products bought on your behalf are bought in your name.
Your contractors should provide guarantees for a specified period covering defects in work done by them. The guarantee period and what is/what is not covered can vary significantly. It’s one to keep a close eye on during the “find and engage a contractor” stage of planning.
In the event that you have any problems beyond the snagging stage, you can and should rely on the contractors guarantee(s) to have those addressed.
If you’re project managing and have executed the applicable JCT* (and, really, you should’ve), there’s a clause that states that the contractors remain responsible for six years after carrying out the work for any faults in the work (other than fair wear and tear) which are caused by the contractors.
* The JCT Building Contract For a Homeowner/Occupier (who has not appointed a consultant to oversee the work)
